Calicoan Island
ABCD Beach and raw Pacific surf — the Eastern Samar island that only surfers knew about · Guiuan, Eastern Samar, Eastern Visayas
Photo: Arnulfo91 / CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Calicoan Island is connected to the mainland of Eastern Samar by a causeway — which makes it technically not an island to drive to, but its Pacific-facing eastern coast is exposed enough that the wave quality rivals Catanduanes and the fish-out-of-water feeling of being in a destination that the mainstream tourist trail has not found is very much intact. The anchor is ABCD Beach — a long stretch of rocky and sandy coast named for the barangays it runs through (A, B, C, and D), with a consistent beach break that works for surfers from September through January, and calmer shallow snorkeling reefs at the southern end. The town of Guiuan, connected to Calicoan by the causeway, is the southernmost municipality of Eastern Samar and a significant World War II site — the American forces used Guiuan as a staging area for the liberation of Manila, and the WWII-era airstrip and ruins are still partially visible in the coastal forest.
Things to do in Calicoan Island
Surfing ABCD Beach
The beach break along Calicoan's Pacific coast is the reason surfers come — a consistent A-frame peak that works with northeast swell (September–February), beach-break left and right with enough power to be interesting and enough forgiveness to be suitable for intermediate surfers. Beginners can learn on the whitewater sections inside the break. Board rental and surf lessons available from the resort-based shops along ABCD (PHP 200–300/day for board, PHP 400–600/hour for lessons). The best surf season (October–January) overlaps with typhoon awareness period; always check PAGASA before paddling out in early season swells.
Snorkeling the Reefs at ABCD's Southern End
The southern section of ABCD Beach transitions from surf-impacted rocky coastline to calmer water with a coral reef starting in 2–5 metres. The snorkeling here is productive — the reef has not seen heavy tourist pressure and the fish density is good. Snorkeling gear rental from beach resorts (PHP 100–150/day). The best snorkeling window is March through June when the swell subsides and visibility improves.
Guiuan Heritage Tour — WWII Sites and Colonial Church
Guiuan town was the staging area for MacArthur's return — the US military built an extensive base here in 1944–1945, and vestiges (concrete foundations, a wartime airstrip overgrown by vegetation, military debris in the surrounding forest) are accessible with a local guide. The Guiuan Church (16th-century Spanish colonial; survived Haiyan structurally) is one of the oldest churches in Eastern Samar. Guiuan also has a small WWII museum in the municipal hall. The combination of colonial and WWII history in a town that most travellers drive through without stopping makes a half-day heritage tour worth the time.
Kayaking and Island-Hopping from Guiuan
The Guiuan municipality encompasses 98 islands, most of them uninhabited or with very small populations. Boat tour operators in Guiuan offer island-hopping to the smaller outlying islands — white sand beaches, mangrove channels, and clear water snorkeling. Tours run PHP 1,500–2,500 for a half-day private banca (split among the group). The Homonhon Island group, where Magellan landed in 1521 during the first circumnavigation of the globe, is accessible on a longer day-tour from Guiuan (3 hours each way; more practical as a dedicated expedition than a casual trip).
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🗓️ Best time to visit Calicoan Island
October through February for surfing — northeast monsoon generates consistent swell on the Pacific coast. March through June is calmer and better for snorkeling, kayaking, and beach relaxation. September through November is typhoon season but also peak swell season — Calicoan and Guiuan were directly in the path of Super Typhoon Haiyan (Yolanda) in November 2013 and have since rebuilt; the area is now better prepared but typhoon alerts require serious attention.
✈️ How to get to Calicoan Island
Fly to Tacloban (Daniel Z. Romualdez Airport) from Manila or Cebu (1 hour, PHP 1,500–3,500). From Tacloban, take a bus or van to Guiuan, Eastern Samar (3.5–4.5 hours, PHP 200–300). From Guiuan town, the causeway to Calicoan Island is accessible by tricycle or habal-habal (PHP 30–50, 10 minutes). Some resort operators in Calicoan offer airport pickup from Tacloban (PHP 800–1,500 per person). Alternatively, fly to Borongan (Eastern Samar capital) if flights are available — 1.5–2 hours south to Guiuan by bus.
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Frequently asked questions — Calicoan Island
How was Calicoan/Guiuan affected by Typhoon Haiyan?
Guiuan was one of the first areas hit by Haiyan (Yolanda) on November 8, 2013 — the typhoon made landfall near Guiuan. The devastation was severe. In the 12 years since, Guiuan has largely rebuilt: the church, schools, and most infrastructure are functional; ABCD Beach resorts have been reconstructed. The experience has made local communities more typhoon-prepared. Visit with the awareness that the area is still recovering in some respects, and that typhoon season (September–November) is a genuine weather risk.
Is Calicoan only for surfers?
No — the beach is pleasant for swimming and snorkeling outside surf season, the Guiuan heritage circuit is interesting independently of the waves, and the island-hopping options are good. But if you are not interested in surfing or water activities, the 4-hour bus from Tacloban is a significant commitment for what is primarily a beach destination.
Can I reach Calicoan from Cebu directly?
Not directly by ferry in one segment — the most practical route from Cebu is fly Cebu→Tacloban, then bus to Guiuan. Alternatively, RORO ferries from Ormoc (Leyte) or Bohol to Borongan (Eastern Samar) exist but have irregular schedules; check before committing to this route. The Tacloban bus connection is the most reliable.
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First time in Calicoan Island?
Quick essentials so you can hit the ground running.
Standard Philippines visa-free entry. No special permits for beach access or surfing on Calicoan.
ATMs in Guiuan town (LandBank, some rural banks). Bring PHP cash from Tacloban for the bus and resort expenses. ABCD Beach resorts accept cash; some take GCash. PHP 1,500–2,500/day covers accommodation, meals, board rental.
Dengue present — use repellent. Surf-related injuries (reef cuts, impact) are the main health risk; basic first aid at resorts, nearest hospital in Guiuan town. No malaria in Eastern Samar coastal areas.
Budget resort in ABCD: PHP 700–1,500/night. Meals at beach restaurants: PHP 200–400. Surf board rental: PHP 200–300/day. Bus Tacloban–Guiuan: PHP 200–300. Total PHP 1,500–2,500/day on the island.
Typhoon awareness is mandatory — September to November is peak swell season AND typhoon season; monitor PAGASA closely. The bus road from Tacloban to Guiuan has some landslide-prone sections; check road conditions after heavy rain. ABCD surf break is suitable for intermediates; beginners should stay inside the break with a lesson from a local instructor.