Biliran Island
The hidden province of Leyte — waterfalls in every municipality and the tourist count in single digits · Biliran Province, Eastern Visayas
Photo: U.S. Navy photo by Mass Communication Specialist 2nd Class Kenneth G. Takada / Public domain via Wikimedia Commons
Biliran is a small island province connected to Leyte by a short bridge — 7,400 square kilometres of volcanic mountainous interior ringed by a narrow coastal plain, and nearly invisible on the Philippine tourism map. It has no beach resort infrastructure, no Instagram-famous viewpoint, and visitor numbers that are counted in hundreds per year rather than thousands. What it has, in abundance, is waterfalls: the island has approximately 12 named falls accessible by trail or road, fed by the volcanic core that also produces hot springs along the western coast. Tomalistis Falls, a 70-metre cascade into a pool in the forest, is the flagship — not a tourist attraction with entrance fees and gift shops, but a waterfall you walk to on a path maintained by the barangay. The surrounding coast has quiet beaches and a modest scuba diving operation in Naval, the island capital. Biliran rewards travellers who actively seek the absence of infrastructure.
Things to do in Biliran Island
Tomalistis Falls
The largest and most impressive waterfall in Biliran, Tomalistis Falls drops approximately 70 metres in a single curtain into a wide pool good for swimming. The trailhead is accessible by motorcycle from Naval (45 minutes), then a 20–30 minute walk through farmland and secondary forest. The pool is deep and clear; the spray extends 10–15 metres around the base. On weekdays, you may have the entire falls to yourself. Entry is free; a barangay guide is sometimes available (PHP 100–150) and helpful for the trail. Bring water shoes — the approach rocks are slippery.
Ulan-Ulan Falls and the Waterfall Circuit
Biliran's other named falls — Ulan-Ulan, Bagasuhon, Recoletos, Tomokon, and several smaller cascades — are distributed across the island's municipalities. A multi-day waterfall circuit, covering 3–4 falls per day by motorcycle, is the main activity for adventurous visitors. The local tourism office in Naval can provide a current map and trail status for each falls (conditions change seasonally). Budget 3–4 days for a thorough circuit; 2 days for the highlights (Tomalistis + Ulan-Ulan + Casiawan).
Casiawan Hot Spring
The Casiawan hot spring, in the municipality of Caibiran on the western coast, is a natural hot spring in a forested valley with a pool maintained by the barangay. The water temperature is 38–42°C — warm enough to be therapeutic without being scalding. Entry PHP 30–50. The surrounding landscape is agricultural with coconut and rice paddies; the spring itself is basic (a concrete pool with changing rooms) but the setting is genuinely pleasant.
Naval Town and Biliran Island Coastal Drive
Naval, the island capital, is a compact port town with a public market, the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, and the bridge that connects Biliran to Leyte. The coastal road circling the island (approximately 120km complete circuit, passable by motorcycle in 4–5 hours) passes through every municipality, with sea views, fish landing ports, and the occasional roadside waterfall viewpoint. The drive itself is a way to see the island at a pace that matches its character — no rush, no agenda.
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🗓️ Best time to visit Biliran Island
November through April is the dry season and the best window for waterfall access — trails are less slippery and the streams are at safe levels for swimming. May through October brings the rainy season; waterfalls are more dramatic (higher volume) but trails are muddy and some routes are impassable after heavy rain. Biliran is protected from the northeast monsoon by the Leyte mountains, so the east coast is calmer than the west in November–February.
✈️ How to get to Biliran Island
Fly to Tacloban (Daniel Z. Romualdez Airport) from Manila or Cebu. From Tacloban, take a van or bus to Naval, Biliran (2.5–3 hours, PHP 150–200) via the Leyte-Biliran bridge. The route crosses the bridge onto Biliran Island and continues to the capital Naval. Most waterfalls are accessible from Naval by habal-habal (motorcycle taxi) or tricycle. Motorcycle rental in Naval: PHP 500–700/day.
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Frequently asked questions — Biliran Island
What is there to do in Biliran besides waterfalls?
Biliran has decent diving in Naval Bay (coral gardens and a WWII wreck), the hot springs circuit, the coastal drive, and access to Sambawan Island (a sandbar island 30 minutes by banca from Naval Bay, with turquoise water and a basic beach cottage) — one of the most beautiful but unknown islands in the Eastern Visayas. Sambawan is a marine reserve; ask at Naval port for current access conditions.
How remote is Biliran?
It is connected to Leyte by a bridge and has a paved road around the entire island. ATMs, accommodation, and restaurants are available in Naval. The interior waterfall trails require a motorcycle and some navigation confidence, but are not wilderness trekking. Biliran is remoter in spirit (very few tourists) than in infrastructure.
Can I combine Biliran with Leyte?
Yes — the natural combination is Tacloban (Leyte heritage) → Ormoc (ferry hub) → Biliran (waterfalls, 3 days) → back to Tacloban. Or include Biliran on the way to Southern Leyte (whale sharks). The bridge makes the crossing trivial.
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First time in Biliran Island?
Quick essentials so you can hit the ground running.
Standard Philippines visa-free entry. No permits needed for most waterfalls (small barangay fees of PHP 20–50 at some).
ATMs in Naval (LandBank, BDO). Bring PHP cash for habal-habal transport, waterfall fees, and meals. Very affordable island: PHP 1,200–2,000/day.
No malaria risk in Biliran. Dengue present — use repellent; the forest around waterfalls has mosquitoes. Waterfall approach rocks are slippery — water shoes required. Nearest hospital in Naval town.
Guesthouse in Naval: PHP 500–900/night. Meals: PHP 150–300. Motorcycle rental: PHP 500–700/day. Waterfall fees: PHP 20–100 each. Total budget: PHP 1,200–2,000/day.
Swimming in waterfall pools is generally safe during dry season; avoid during heavy rain when water volume surges unpredictably. The coastal circuit road has sections of poor pavement; drive motorcycles carefully after rain. The Biliran-Leyte bridge is well-maintained.