Eastern Visayas Travel Guide: Leyte, Samar and Beyond

Eastern Visayas (Region VIII) is perhaps the most historically layered region in the Philippines. General MacArthur waded ashore at Red Beach in Leyte in 1944, fulfilling his promise to return and triggering the largest naval battle in history. Before that, Magellan died here in 1521 on the island of Mactan (technically Eastern Visayas-adjacent). And the region was ground zero for Typhoon Haiyan (Yolanda) in 2013 - the strongest tropical cyclone ever recorded to make landfall - which transformed Tacloban and much of Leyte in ways still visible today. Alongside all this history is some of the Philippines' most impressive natural scenery: pristine surf breaks in Samar, spectacular caves, and one of the country's most beautiful remote coastlines.

Tacloban City (Leyte)

Tacloban is the regional capital and the gateway to Eastern Visayas. The city has rebuilt significantly since Haiyan and has a genuine, unhurried character that larger cities lack. The Santo Nino Shrine and Heritage Museum - actually the former vacation home of Imelda Marcos, who was born in Leyte - is a fascinating and slightly surreal look at Marcos-era excess (open to visitors, 100 PHP). The Leyte Landing Memorial at Red Beach in Palo (10 minutes from Tacloban) marks the spot where MacArthur waded ashore on October 20, 1944 - large bronze statues recreate the famous moment. The Leyte Gulf Battle of Surigao Strait Memorial in Abuyog is further south but marks the naval battle site.

Sohoton Natural Bridge National Park (Samar)

The most spectacular natural attraction in Eastern Visayas is the Sohoton Cliffs in Basey, Western Samar - accessible by boat from Tacloban via the San Juanico Strait or overland to Basey (2 hours). The park features a natural stone bridge 7 meters wide and 15 meters tall spanning a river gorge, cathedral-sized limestone caves (the Panhulugan Cave can hold thousands of people), and a network of tidal lagoons and underground rivers. This is one of the Philippines' most impressive cave-and-river systems and sees almost no international tourists.

Calicoan Island (Samar)

Calicoan Island off the southeast coast of Samar is a surfer's discovery that has started appearing on international radar. The ABCD Beach breaks are consistent, barreling waves that work best June to October. There is almost no tourist infrastructure - a few surf camps and guesthouses - which makes it genuinely off-the-beaten-track. The island is also strikingly beautiful: volcanic black rock contrasting with white sand, coconut palms bending over the breaks, and deep blue Pacific water.

Biliran Island

Biliran is a small island province connected to Leyte by bridge - 45 minutes from Naval (Biliran's capital) to Caibiran. The island has seven active thermal springs, waterfalls, and black sand beaches. Bagongbong Waterfall, Ulan-Ulan Waterfall, and the Tomalistis Falls are all accessible by motorbike and short hike. The island is essentially undeveloped for tourism, which is both its challenge and its charm.

Getting to Eastern Visayas

Fly Manila to Tacloban (1.5 hours, daily flights) or Cebu to Tacloban (1 hour). From Cebu, you can also take the Supercat ferry to Ormoc City on Leyte's west coast (2.5 hours, 600 PHP) and bus to Tacloban from there. Tacloban to Catbalogan (Samar) is 3 hours by bus across the San Juanico Bridge - one of the Philippines' most scenic road crossings.

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