Dumaguete Travel Guide: The Coolest Small City in the Philippines

There is a particular quality of life in Dumaguete that travelers notice within hours of arriving. It is a university city on the southern coast of Negros Island, home to Silliman University, one of the oldest in the Philippines, which means it has the intellectual energy, the good coffee shops, the live music venues, and the cosmopolitan openness that university towns everywhere generate. But it is also a provincial coastal city with a famous boulevard, a fish market that has barely changed in decades, and the Celebes Sea stretching south toward Siquijor and Apo Island. Locals call it the City of Gentle People, and the name fits.

The Rizal Boulevard

The Rizal Boulevard is a 1.3-kilometer waterfront promenade running along the coast of Negros. In the evening, the boulevard fills with people: joggers, couples, families, students, vendors selling isaw and fresh coconuts. The view across the strait toward Siquijor is especially beautiful at sunset. Several restaurants and coffee shops line the boulevard at prices significantly lower than Cebu City or Manila.

The Food Scene

Dumaguete punches well above its weight for food. The city has a genuine cafe culture with excellent coffee at PHP 80 to 120 for a specialty drink. Lab-as Restaurant near the boulevard is famous for affordable Filipino seafood, a full meal with drinks costs PHP 200 to 400. For street food, the area around Quezon Park in the evening fills with vendors selling grilled seafood, puso (hanging rice), and local sweets.